jake maji svicky barvu? nejsou cerne jak bota ? karbec rozdelat vycistit tlak vzduchem .. pokud by ti nevystavoval sytic , tak po zahrati motoru by ti kourilo dosti smradu s vejfuku..

jinak mam ted momentalne tri karburatory , neni problem ti jeden zapujcit .. ale nove take nejsou a jeden nemam jeste vyzkousenej ...

Neboj zapujcim kdyz tak sveho Hollyho

Viděl jsem fotky, jak tam máš vrtačku, takže jsi motor už předmazával? Pokud jsou hydroštely prázdný, tak dávají tuším menší odpor. Máš pocit, že by se ta matka po utažení dokázala sama uvolnit?

Jinak já otáčel o 180°. Nejdřív se ujistit, že jsou zavřený oba ventily, pak utahovat, dokud tyčka nezatuhne. Pak lehce povolit a najít tu hranu, kde ještě nezatuhává a od tý hrany otočit těch 180°.

Upraveno uživatelem pondělí 11. března 2013 15:03:59(UTC)  | Důvod úpravy: -

A ještě nechápu proč to teda každej dělá jinak :(
Tady dělá 360 tedy celou otočku

tady zase jen 180 půl otočky

no a tady dokonce na spár.měrky tak co si mám vybrat


když to udělám na půl otočky a zkusim tam měrku tak tam dám 1.00 když udělám třištvrtě otočky dostanu tam 0.60 a když udělám celou otočku tak jen 0.20. V papírech mám napsáno u vačky že u hyder mám udělat půl otočky a u koníků zase 0.20-0.60

Zlatá střední cesta o třištvrtě otočky?

Upraveno uživatelem čtvrtek 14. března 2013 8:55:20(UTC)  | Důvod úpravy: -

http://www.diamondbacken...pers/setting-valve-lash/

Adjusting hydraulic lifters can be done basically the same and in many cases both rockers can be adjusted at the same time –just make sure to stop about 20 degrees or so after the intake for that cylinder closes so as not to end up with the exhaust starting to open. Hydraulics require preload not lash so the method is slightly different. Once the rocker(s) in question are ready to adjust, back them off until they are loose enough to rattle. Take the pushrod you are adjusting between your thumb and forefinger and spin lightly (don’t hold it too tight or apply up or down pressure)while slowly tightening the adjuster. As SOON as you feel a slight drag, you are at zero lash – you must hold the pushrod lightly to feel this. Once you have zero, you must turn the adjuster enough to preload the lifter properly. The old “turn it ½ turn” method may or may not be correct. You don’t want them too loose as you run the risk of pounding the retainer ring out of the lifter body or at the least having noisy lifters. Too tight and your valves may not fully close and will surely float at an early rpm- you may have witnessed this before if you ever were around a performance car that ran like heck , but layer over severely / backfired at a relatively low rpm. Most performance lifters have a specified preload which you can get from the manufacturer if you don’t know. Many are less than ½ turn. Your adjusters are generally fine thread fasteners, and move a certain part of an inch per revolution. Below is a list of standard sizes and how far they move per turn- Find the figure for your adjuster size and divide it by your specified preload. Example:

Your lifter preload is spec’d at .008 -.012 and you have 3/8 adjusters . Divide .0419 by.008=5.24. Divide .0419 by.012= 3.49 Put a 1 over that or 1/5.24 - 1/3.49 or about 1/5th to 1/3rd turn is your specified preload.



It is ok to use the specified figure for cold fire up, but expect to readjust hot to get it perfect. Also keep in mind that new equipment will wear in and you will probably need to readjust a couple times in the first few hours of use before they “take a set”.